Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Four Months in Rome, Part Sixteen

Friday, November 12, 2010:

Cheri and I have Friday afternoons “off” and we actually got out of the studio about an hour after class ended. We thought we’d do something fun. We’ve had a week or two of rainy days, but today was a beautiful day. One of our students thought we should check out the Villa Torlonia, where the House of Owls is located. The name comes from the recurrent use of “owls” as inspiration on the decorative scheme of the building. 
House of Owls
This museum contains all sorts of stained glass pieces and the drawings made before the stained glass pieces were created. The “House” was built in 1839 as a Swiss cabin, then modified and added on to as the resident of Prince Torlonia in the early 20th century. The stained glass windows are mostly from 1910 to 1925. It was really fun seeing such “modern” works of art when we normally go to places that are centuries old.


front of Casino Nobile
back of Casino Nobile
Another museum on the grounds of the Villa is the Casino Nobile, built in 1802 (virtually “new” by Roman standards)! This home was built for the banker, Giovanni Torlonia. It was rented to Benito Mussolini from 1925-1943 to be used as his state residence. Three or four shelters (anti-gas and anti air-raid) were built on the property during his time living here. The bunkers were built in a large underground Jewish catacomb that was discovered in 1919 in the NW area of the grounds. The house was occupied by the Allied High Command, from 1944 to 1947. The Villa was purchased by the Municipality of Rome in 1977 and opened to the public one year later. Restoration began in the 1990s and is almost complete. There are several other buildings on the grounds.


Ballroom; also used as a dining room
Alessandro's Room; used as a dining room
Bedroom used by Alessandro and by Mussolini
Bedroom ceiling
Villa pond
The park-like grounds were fun to walk around on. One of the air-raid bunkers was built directly under the pond on the property, but it was never used because they decided the pond would be used as a target. From what we could tell, it was free to enter the Villa grounds and enjoy the “park”. We had to show our ticket every time we entered a building.

Saturday, November 13, 2010:

Cheri, Brenda and I were up early this morning to take the train to Spoleto, Italy for the day. We walked around the town, checked out the Archeological Museum, walked through the picturesque historical part of town, went to the “Duomo”, La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary), and viewed the Albornoz Fortress (residence of Pope Innocent VI in the 1360s, became a maximum security prison around 1860, and has been a museum since 1992). 


Archeological Museum
Archeological Museum
Theatre at museum, they still hold concerts here 
view of Spoleto from the below the Albornoz Fortress 
“Duomo”, La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta
Albornoz Fortress
We didn't have time to walk  up to the Albornoz Fortress. It was noon and time to call Primo and Deanie Angeli, who live in the area. They picked us up and we went to a restaurant for lunch, then drove to their home for dessert. They have a beautiful home up in the foothills outside of Spoleto. While sitting on their deck, four hand-gliders floated by on their way to land in a neighboring field. 


Angeli's home
Primo and Deanie on their deck
We had a great time together, and before we knew it, we had already missed one train to head back to Rome. We had open tickets, so it wasn’t a problem, but we had to get moving to make it to the train station for the next train. Primo couldn’t let us go home empty handed. He signed one of his Olympic posters for each of us with a personal message. Right before we left, he grabbed three of his “Boudin Sourdough Bread” posters for us saying they make great kitchen posters. Now, we have the task of getting these posters home in mint condition!

Tuesday, November 16, 2010:

It was faculty fun night tonight! We try to do something together once a month. We went to the Van Gogh exhibit at the Vittorio Complex. It was a very nice exhibit, showing many of his earlier works, plus many paintings by Millet, Pissarro, Cézanne, Gauguin and Seurat.

I can hardly believe it, but my kids arrive on Saturday! Amanda and Brandon, Rachel and my niece, Sarah, will stay a week before returning home. Valerie and Ian are not able to come because Valerie is entering her last trimester and was advised by her doctor not to travel this far. It will be great to see everyone and have a “Roman” Thanksgiving. It also means my stay here in Rome will soon come to an end. I feel like I have so much to do before I can go home, but I’m ready to head back to the States. As you can tell, my posts have gotten farther apart as the pace here has picked up to get all the projects done and graded. I’m sure I will post at least one more time before I head home. The kids and I are spending two days in Venice.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! 

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Four Months in Rome, Part Fifteen

Tuesday, November 9, 2010:

I can’t believe it’s been so long since my last blog. My cousin Gwen was here for a week. Her luggage was here for just a few days! We had a great time despite the lost luggage. By the third day it just became funny. We got several different stories… the bag never made the original flight in Denver, it missed the connecting flight in Washington DC, it ended up in Frankfort, Germany, it got sent back to Denver, and it sat at the airport in Rome for two and a half days because the Rome airport refused to deliver it! Gwen headed back home the day we left on the north field trip with the students. When she arrived at the airport, they told her she had cancelled her return flight! They couldn’t tell her on what day and time she did this, but assured her that she was the one who had cancelled the flight. Gwen actually arrived home an hour earlier than her scheduled flight. If you are wondering what carrier could make so many blunders, it was United.

Gwen and I parted at the train station… she headed for the Leonardo Express to reach the airport and I was headed to Switzerland with the Graphic Design students and faculty. It was a 7 hour trip with a stop in Milan, Italy to change trains. 


The train station in Milan is very beautiful. The design for the station started out very simply, but Mussolini kept changing the design to make it more complex and majestic to represent the power of the fascist regime.

The trip didn’t seem near as long going as it did coming home! I do enjoy traveling by train. It’s fun to see the rural areas of the country. Italy reminds me of western Iowa at time and the foothills of Colorado at other times. I saw a few fields of corn still standing tall. Lots of sheep herds in Italy, which quickly changed to herds of cattle once we crossed into Switzerland. Switzerland is beautiful! It definitely looks a lot like the mountains of Colorado. 




We were headed to Zürich, the largest city in Switzerland, so my pictures of countryside were taken from inside the train. We spent one night in Zürich and two nights in Basel. 


We went to the Plakatraum, a typographic poster museum in Zürich as soon as we arrived around 3 pm. Then the rest of the evening was a “free” evening. Cheri, Brenda and I ate at a Swiss/German restaurant called the Zeughauskeller Restaurant that reminded me of the restaurants in the Amana Colonies. I ordered the pork roast and potato salad dinner. It was so tender and tasty! It was a huge portion, but I ate every last bite. We were all stuffed, so it was a good thing we had to walk part of the way back to the hostel to spend the night!

We were up early the next morning to get back on another train to head to Basel. Basel is the second largest city in Switzerland. It is located where the Switzerland, Germany and France borders meet. The Rhine River flows through Basel. 





It is a beautiful city. The Swiss Franc and the American dollar are basically the same rate right now, so we knew exactly how much we were paying for things, and everything was expensive! I didn’t buy any souvenirs while we were there, but it wasn’t so much the cost as it was hard to find any souvenir shops! 


There were chocolate shops on every corner, but no souvenir shops to be found. I thought the last thing I needed was to buy chocolate, but when I saw the cute Christmas chocolates I thought I’d buy some for my kids. When I saw that these little Christmas tree chocolates with a ribbon to hang on the tree were 8 CHF each, I decided I could buy Swiss chocolate in Ames for a lot less! 

Vitra Museum

Germany

 Claraplatz

 Paper Museum

 Paper Museum

We toured the Vitra Museum just across the border in Germany, shopped in the Claraplatz area of Basal, and toured the Basiel Papiermühle (Paper Museum and Mill) with the students before heading back to Rome. The Paper Museum was really neat and “hands on” as all of the students, and myself, made a sheet of paper, marbleized a sheet of paper, got to work the letterpress, tried our hand at calligraphy (one of the employees was quite impressed with mine J), and watch employees do other jobs in the mill. It was a little like Living History Farms in West Des Moines, only it was all located inside three buildings connected together. 


Cheri, Brenda and I also went to the Tinguely Museum on our free morning. We left Basal at 9 am, three train changes later we were back in Rome by 5 pm. It made for a very long day. Most of the students had made arrangements for personal travel from our stop in Milan. Our job was to get them all back into Italy before they headed out on their own. J

We’re back in Rome and the rainy season is well upon us. Up until now, when it would rain, it would rain for an hour, then clear up and be beautiful. It rained the last two full days Gwen was here. The first day, it rained off and on all morning, but was sunny in the afternoon. The last full day she was here, it rained all day, but we didn’t let that stop us from going out to see the sites. There was even thunder and lightning, which was a first since I have been here. It was also a national holiday, which meant a lot of stores were closed, but we found everything we needed. It has rained off and on all day for the last three days now, which makes living in the same building as the studio nice, because I don’t have to go out into the rain.

On Saturday, Cheri, Brenda and I will travel to Spoleto, Italy to visit Primo and Deanie Angeli, who led the packaging workshop for our students. I'm looking forward to the trip.